Background
Before we had signed up to the AHF Ten Peak Challenge – to trek to Australia’s ten highest peaks – we didn’t even know if it was going ahead. With COVID restrictions and the never ending threat of more cases, we were hoping that everything was going to be all good. As it turns out, we should have been praying to the weather gods – more on that later.
A few months before, training had begun in earnest. This involved many hours out on the trails around Sydney, early mornings and lots of steps – up and down.
Being a keen weather observer, the impending forecast looked interesting! Sunny for the first day turning later into a thunderstorm, with high winds for the next two days. Coupled with further rain and snow and a high wind chill thrown in for good measure, it was certainly going to be a challenge – the Ten Peaks Challenge! Welcome to the Australian Alpine environment located in Kosciuszko National Park, NSW.
So, with gear sorted, a packed lunch, lots of snacks and a great bunch of people along with Zac Zaharias as our guide and his team from Peak Learning, it was time to head out. The plan was to tackle all of Australia’s ten highest peaks over 4 days. Ten peaks covering some 65km over varied terrain – all in support of the Australian Himalayan Foundation (AHF).
Day 1- The Calm before the Storm
The group of 18 hardy souls, plus guides, began in a very jovial manner. Being amongst mountaineers piqued our interest further. The excitement was building.
The plan. Day 1 – tackle some 18km and hike out to two of the Ten Peaks from Charlotte Pass. Mt Twynam (2,195m) and Carruthers Peak (2,145m).
As we discovered later, this was just a mere warm up for what was yet to come. Starting in sunshine, we could see the change in the weather approaching from the North West. And, with dark clouds descending towards the end of a long day, the heavens opened up and it got progressively worse. With the wind picking up and looking like drowned rats, it was starting to get cold. Then, we saw some runners clawing their way to finishing the ‘Coast to Kosci’ – an ultramarathon covering 240km. We looked at their dishevelled figures. Realising we had a nice place to stay for the night with a comfortable bed, great food and a hot shower, suddenly lulled us out of our senses and the good banter started up again.
Day 2 – Getting Cold
After a good night’s sleep and feeling full from the several helpings of food (bank those calories), we took one look out the window and the weather forecast. Suffice to say, it was an ‘oh hum’ moment with a few people exclaiming “we’re not going out in that”. Oh yes, we are! After all, we signed up for this. And hey, what’s a bit of wind chill to deter you from going outside. Hmmm. How about a wind temperature of -15deg celsius with wind gusts forecast to get up to 80km/h up at the top. So, adopting the one step forward, two steps back approach, off we all plodded slipping and sliding as we went. Now, at this point I did stop and ponder. If there were any Antarctic penguins out here, they wouldn’t have looked out of place. And this is Australia in summer!!
After some hours heading cross country, we managed to scramble up another two peaks. Rams Head (2,190m) and Rams Head North (2,177m). We had previously ascended Rams Head North back in August during a winter skills course, though with lots more snow around but little wind.
After day 2, four out of the ten peaks were ticked off. “We’re on a roll”, I thought. “We’ll easily knock off the other six peaks over the next 2 days”. As we headed back down to Thredbo on the chairlift, the conditions to come weren’t looking great. As you might suspect by now, the topic over dinner was the weather forecast. Will or won’t we head out and up tomorrow?
Day 3 – Colder and Snowy
Waking up to day 3, the group was feeling strong but somewhat apprehensive. Concern centred around the weather forecast – again!. Mainly, exposure to conditions bordering on hypothermia if we were to head out to Kosciuszko.
So with that, a decision was taken. Everyone nodded in unison. Scrapping our original plan, we decided to stay down low. Taking a leisurely 10km hike up and around and then descending the Dead Horse Gap trail. Finishing at the bottom, it suddenly dawned on us what that meant. On the last day, we would have to undertake the other 6 peaks. This would mean covering around 27km if we wanted to complete the Ten Peaks challenge. One step at a time I thought. Let’s worry about that tomorrow. Just relax and focus on today. Being met with a glass or two of schnapps at the end of the trail (thanks Grace) obviously helped clarify my thoughts! Now, why don’t we do that on a mountain – worth exploring further I think.
Later that night, we had a special dinner organised at a local restaurant. Zac regaled great stories of the challenges he and his team faced in their many Himalayan expeditions; Mike Edmondson showed off his lovely photography of Kosciuszko National Park and yours truly, presented the story on the AHF and the great work it does across the Himalayas.
Day 4 – The Big Day
Looking out the window and seeing snow falling in the village, my immediate thoughts turned to the day at hand. “It’s going to be tough going up top”, I said to myself. The wind had dropped though it was still going to be pretty cold out on the trail. Gearing up, we started our ascent up to Etheridge Ridge Peak (2,180m) and then onto Mt Kosciuszko (2,228m), the highest mountain in Australia.
Yes, I know Australia is relatively flat compared to, say, the Himalaya’s. One thing Australia can claim though, is that Kosciuszko is 440 million years old. Compare that to Mt Everest, which is only 60 million years old.
Judging by the amount of snow on the ground, we must have received something in the vicinity of a metre of the white stuff over night. Once we had all ascended Mt Kosciuszko, some of the group decided that they had reached their final summit for the day and turned around to head back down. The rest of us made a decision to carry on and head out back country and complete the other four peaks. At one stage, I must admit I had contemplated turning back myself. I’m so glad though, like the others, I found that inner strength inside of me and pushed on.
Cross Country
So peeling off from the main range trail, we again headed cross country through deep snow and native vegetation. We glimpsed wildflowers that were starting to bloom. But like us though, they had their heads neatly covered up from icy cold winds. Lucky for us, our guides led the way across ridges, rivers and streams picking out a trail wherever we could. When the clouds descended, it was somewhat trickier. On any long day, it’s important to stay focused, hydrate and eat. At that point, someone then yelled “chocolate”. Like seagulls on a beach, we all descended on the one thing keeping us going.
The final four peaks
One by one, we knocked off the other 4 peaks. First, Mt Townsend (2,209m) and the second highest. Next came Alice Rawson (2,160m). The last two were what is termed, the Abbott’s – Abbott Peak (2,159m) and Abbott Peak East (2,145m).
After high fives, it was time to turn around and head for home – some 14km away. Jumping over rivers, gullies, snow melt and with the sun setting, the alpine wilderness had thrown everything at us. At that stage, a random tree branch caught my boot and lulled me out of my false sense of security.
As Eagles Nest came into view, we summonsed up all the energy we had left. As the chairlift had closed for the day, we had no option but to walk another 4km in a zigzag route with a descent of some 600m. Winding our way back down the nature trail to Thredbo village, it was a welcome relief to finally reach the bottom.
After 13 hours and finishing up at 10:15pm, someone reminded me to rehydrate. With a beer in one hand, a red wine in the other and of course a glass of water, it was a hearty cheers. What a great way to celebrate a long day with like minded friends.
Thankyou’s and Goodbye’s
Firstly, special thanks must go out to Zac Zaharias and his team from Peak Learning for great logistics, daily motivation and belief in his ‘charges’. When presented with a challenge, you learn how to push on, persevere and achieve your ‘peak’, overcoming adversity.
Secondly, to the Australian Himalayan Foundation, of whom this Ten Peaks challenge was in aid of. Donations were greatly accepted – however big or small.
Lastly but not least, a special thank you to all of the great group of like minded adventurers and ‘peak baggers’ who signed up for the challenge. Without all of you, it wouldn’t have been as much fun.
In pondering our success, I leave you with one final thought. As Tenzing Norgay exclaimed to Sir Edmund Hillary when climbing Everest, “friends are as important as achievement, … teamwork is the one key to success and that selfishness only makes you small”.
Au revoir, until next time we meet up.
Onwards and upwards!
Trevor
P.S. Read more of our posts about adventures in the Kosciuszko region here.
