Why Patagonia?
2016 was fast approaching on the horizon and a significant milestone for my partner’s birthday looming. So we went researching around for another trekking adventure – and discovered the Great Patagonian Traverse.
The opening of a new route linking Chile and Argentina offered a traverse of untouched national parks, from the Southern Ice cap to the towers of Torres del Paine. And everything in between.
We have travelled the length and breadth of South America numerous times, and thoroughly enjoyed the people, culture and food (see our post on Colombia for example). So, looking for something different, we picked out this relatively new 15 day trip to enjoy (Great Patagonian Traverse with World Expeditions) – with a mix of estancia homestay and refugios for accommodation.
Where to begin?
We joined the trip in Balmaceda, Chile where it was a chilly 8 degrees celsius – and this was summer. By comparison, it was a balmy 26 degrees celsius in Santiago when we left earlier in the morning, but we were heading south after all – way south.
We had signed up for this supported hike with a small group of eight people – two Italians, one Kiwi and the rest Aussies. The opportunity provided us with a traverse of Patagonia, travelling its length from Coyhaique in the North to Puerto Natales in the South, via Chile and Argentina. The majority was on foot, some by bus, and other by boat via some of the most captivating and untouched national parks in the region.
The journey
Our journey took us via Villa O’Higgins, before joining a boat to cross Lago O’Higgins, with the Southern Patagonian ice field in our midst – the world’s second largest contiguous extrapolar ice field. At about 16,800 sq km, it is second only to southeastern Alaska’s approximately 25,000 sq km St. Elias-Kluane-Malaspina-Eastern Chugach Ice Field.
A recently opened pass between the shores of Lago O’Higgins in Chile and Laguna del Desierto in Argentina offered a unique way to continue the traverse and offered a side to Patagonia rarely seen by other trekkers.
Of course, no trip to Patagonia would be complete without trekking in the Paine National Park.
There we completed the ‘W’ trek and enjoyed forays to the Grey Glacier, up the French Valley and the Ascension Valley before finally ascending to the base of Torres del Paine for one of the most unforgettable mountain views in the world – it’s a long slog of around 1,000m (3,280ft) ascent and decent (7-8 hours return) but well worth it in the end.
Other highlights of the trip included spending New Year’s eve in the quaint hiking and climbing village of El Chalten, Argentina.
Like the locals, we partied hard into the early morning and during the ‘fog’ of alcohol and great company, forgot we had a 5-6 hour hike ahead of us the next day. After a not so early start, lots of water was consumed to rehydrate, suffice to say it was slow going.
Other highlights
A cruise on Lago O’Higgins was another highlight. After getting up close and personal to an iceberg or three that had broken away from the icefield, a couple of the boat crew went off in a Zodiac to chip away some ice. Now what to do with the ice? The only thing you could do of course. Put it in a glass of whiskey – I’m sure that enhanced the age of it somewhat.
Trekking in Patagonia was certainly an experience to remember.
Onwards and upwards!
Trevor
Insights
- Pack gaiters and hiking poles. This is especially so for the muddy section that you will hike on foot across the border of Chile into Argentina (around 15km).
- Ensure you’ve had your Chile exit stamped in your passport at the small shed just outside Candelario Mancilla.
- Learn some Spanish. Don’t make the mistake of saying ‘si’ to everything the Spanish speaking border official says. One person did and was just about to receive an exit stamp instead of an entry one!
- At the conclusion of the trip, it’s definitely worthwhile spending an extra day or two in Punta Arenas, gateway to the Antarctic.
- Watch out for the local gauchos herding their flock of sheep and guanacos.
- Best time to go trekking in Patagonia is January – February. The weather is more stable and you have clear sunny days.